A Little Tour in France
Henry James
Once again, I am reading a 19th Century Travelogue, this one a bit later, towards the end of the 19th Century and by the author Henry James.
James starts by saying that while many Americans believe that Paris is France, that France is not Paris. He then goes on to tell much about France that has nothing to do with Paris. Unlike Pinkney, he does not start his tale with his landing in France. In fact, as best I can tell he was residing in Paris at the time he takes his trip. He heads south and this gives us the northern boundary of his trip. He says nothing of the north of France.
His travels start at Tours. He seems to remain at Tours for rather a long time, and sees all of the Loire Valley by what today we would call day trips, though I think some of his were a bit more than a single day. He sees Chenonceau and Chambord, which I have visited, and also Blois, Bourges, Langeais, Azay-le-Rideau, and many others.
He sort of corkscrews out from there, going north to Le Mans, then east to Angers and Nantes before heading south to La Rochelle and Poiters. Then, he enters the area that I knew from 35 years ago. He visits Bordeaux and then Toulouse.
He does not like Toulouse, except the Church of St. Sernin, a great example of Romanesque Church architecture. He enjoyed the accent of Languedoc, which is indeed unique. It really is French spoken with a southern drawl, much slower than Parisien.
Carcassonne is his next stop, a place where I spent five months. He answers a question that I never quite asked. When I saw Carcassone in 1976, the space between the two walls was open, as it had been during the middle ages. Somewhere between the middle ages and the 19th Century, a row of houses had been built on the flat space between the walls, with their backs up against the wall and a road in front. From what I could find out, they were squatters. That property had never been sold to them, but over the centuries they had come to live there. James tells us the method of getting the squatters out of the house. They waited for them the inhabitants to die, then claimed the house and tore it down. The process was only partially finished when James visited in the 1880s.
James continues on to Narbonne, Montpellier, Nimes and then Arles. In and around Nimes and Arles he especially loved the Roman ruins. Now, any modern traveler to Arles would almost certainly visit there in order to pay homage to one of the great painters of the 19th Century, Vincent Van Gogh. James mentioned nothing of Van Gogh, or any other artist at Arles. A Little Tour in France was first published in 1884. He would have known nothing of Van Gogh, who arrived in Arles in 1888.
Next he visits Avignon, before traveling up the Rhone. The river is in flood stage, and he gives a very graphic description of the flood, the mighty river spread out into a lake with tree tops dotting up out of it. After Avignon he travels north to Orange, and then on the Macon and Dijon.
These are the major stops on his trip, but he makes many side trips. At Nimes he travels out to the Pont de Gard, and Aigues-Mortes, and there are many others, especially in the south, though one should also remember that he started in Tour with many many side trips through the Loire Valley.
I really enjoyed A Little Tour in France.